Raw-Edge Applique Coasters and Basics – Do’s & Don’ts of Intuitive Sewing

Raw-Edge Applique Coasters and Basics

Raw-edge Applique Coasters

Last week I posted my new Raw Edge Applique Coaster video. This cute little item is a great way to practice your REA (Raw Edge Applique) skills, but please do not attempt this as your first REA project or if you aren’t proficient as free-motion quilting yet. You should work up to this project! Also, you may want to simplify the project by stitching the binding with a regular foot at the end, instead of free-motioning the top stitching.

I covered everything in this post in three videos early in 2016, working through three projects. Here are some links if you want to open those in separate windows:  PART 1: Raw Edge Applique No Fusing – tea cozy, trivet, table mat; PART 2: Raw Edge Applique – Intuitive Sewing Basics; PART 3: Finish & Bind – tea cozy, trivet, table mat

Part 3: Finishing

Part 2: Basics

Part 1: Intro





The following information on Raw-Edge Applique Basics and Do’s and Don’ts is provided as a printable PDF. I’ve switched up the order a little to fit everything on two pages, but the information is the same.


A few things to keep in mind:

All the principles of good design apply… Balance… Emphasis… Movement… Pattern…Repetition… Proportion… Rhythm… Variety… Unity… Contrast… Value… Whimsy… Juxtaposition…

Handy Aids…gloves…marking tools (chalk and washable markers)…spray starch…washable fabric glue stick…curved tip embroidery scissors.
Sketches can be helpful…and sometimes just sleep on things.

Raw-Edge Applique BASIC DO’s & DON’Ts:

Use tape on small scraps

1) No tiny scraps – Use tape to utilize small scraps, but keep your fingers away from the needle. To the right is my a video on that:

2) Tight stitches make stable edges on shapes – This makes it harder for edge to fray too far.

3) Don’t stitch off your piece – Stitching off increases the chances that you will lose control momentarily, which is not a good idea when free-motion quilting. Minimize behaviors that put your fingers at risk.

4) Obsess about bobbin tension a little – Get in the habit of checking your tension with every
new bobbin and every thread change. I often do this on the margin of my piece, right before I
stitch on the work itself.

5) Look at it from a distance – This doesn’t apply to coasters, but with bigger work, step back
and see what you think from the across the room or even in the hallway. Some beautifully
detailed work sings up close but manages to be blah or somehow off, from a distance, as people
will approach it.

6) Take Care of Your Body – Hunching into the machine is a very bad habit that is easy to
develop. Try to counteract it with awareness, exercise, and frequent breaks.

7) Mark trouble spots that YOU don’t like – Ugly puckers, baggy areas, cuts and holes, bobbin
thread show through, and ugly stitching should not have to survive to the finished piece.

8) Switch thread a lot – This adds depth and complexity to your designs. I usually go for maximum contrast, although I didn’t when I was still learning to FMQ.

9) Trim to minimize overlap as you go – It is easy to get lost and cover up elements you wanted to show if you leave too much of the trimming for later. Design is visual…try to see your work at each stage, as it evolves.

10) Manage puckers – Really bad ones can distort your piece enough to require drastic measures. You can use your clothespin, scissors, bodkin, or screwdriver ahead of the needle to smooth out layers, but a wooden implement is the safest. By the way, I always sew with glasses on to protect my eyes from flying needle shrapnel. In the old days, the lenses were just glass. Now they have a little magnification.

11) Trim a little wiggle – This adds interest and helps keep edges from fraying too much over time.

12) Find your motifs everywhere – The world is a beautiful, complex environment. Study it.

13) Sew fabrics together if they sing together – If they sizzle and make you feel good, sew them together.

14) Compensate as needed – For instance, zigzags are more challenging than sinuous lines in terms of stitch quality because sharp turns exacerbate bad tension. Sometimes good tension is elusive no matter how hard you try to adjust it. And sometimes it just works. Just be aware of what you are working with currently and factor that into your design decisions.

15) Experiment. Go a little crazy. Don’t be matchy-matchy. No nitpicking. PLAY!!!

The Basic Steps for Raw-Edge Applique

STEP I. BUILD UP BACKGROUND: Start with big shapes, to anchor the piece visually and physically, and quickly cover some ground. Contrast in value, not just color.

STEP II. FILL IN MID-GROUND: Enhance design with mid-sized, graphic elements & organic plant shapes. Raw-Edge Applique skills accrue with time and practice…part of it is your attitude about your own sewing. My favorite fabric sings on everything.

Later we can do anything to fix mistakes and add embellishments… buttons… beads… ribbons… lace… embroidery… paint… marker… glitter… tassels… jewelry parts… to our hearts’ content.

STEP III. FOREGROUND: Add color highlights, refine composition, make any repairs. Clean backside of loose threads periodically as you go.

STEP IV. FINAL QUILTING & PLAN EMBELLISHMENTS: Quilt between elements, adding detail and dimension; plan final bells & whistles.

STEP V. WASH & DRY: Press from behind. Clean up frayed edges. Continue planning final bells & whistles. Add any additional stitching, such as satin stitching now. This can be used to make things pop, fix trouble areas, or both at the same time!

PART VI. FINISH CONSTRUCTION: Sew your piece. Bind and finish edges and hems as you desire.

PART VII. ADD BELLS & WHISTLES: This can be beading, painting, more satin stitching, buttons, etc., even literal bells.

I would love to hear about your REA sewing adventures.

Thanks, Beth/Zazu


Make Novelty Pot Holders to Brighten Any Kitchen: A Partial Throwback


Novelty Pot Holders Say “I Love You” in the Kitchen

ttlogoCute, cute, cute: this is the comment you will get if you make novelty pot holders for your gift list this season. Part throwback, part new, here are the best tutorial videos I have on YouTube for novelty pot holders of several styles. And check out my Strawberry Tea Cozy below…. 


leaf-potholderNEW VIDEO!!! Free-Motion Quilt a Leaf Potholder: this brand new video video features a cute pincher-style potholder with a pocket mouth opening to put you hand inside.

Make this pattern up to be as simple or as elaborate as you please. I’ve free-motion quilted the veining, as well as added a tight meander allover, but you could just straight stitch the veins with a walking foot instead.

chili-pepper-copyLet’s Sew Chili Pepper Handle Covers: this diminutive novelty “pot holder” is great for cast iron skillets and long-handled cookware that gets a little too hot to the touch. This pattern is super easy to adjust in length.

If you haven’t learned to free-motion quilt yet, just substitute straight lines of stitching to modify this design as indicated in the detailed video instructions.

lets-sew-apple-mitts-gift3Let’s Free-Motion Quilt Apple Oven Mitts: this sweet pincher-style apple mitt brightens any kitchen, especially if you love the color red! Designed to resemble the fruit with a slice cut out of it, this perky favorite has a turned, edged-stitched leaf for a hanger, sewn on with a colorful button.

Practice your free-motion meander quilting while making these for gifts.

Strawberry Tea Cozy: new pattern & video tutorial

This quick pattern features two layers of Insul-bright, heat-reflective batting, to keep that pot of tea hot as long as possible…and it looks like a strawberry! Click to watch!

Find the pattern on the Free PDFs page.


Mini Landscape Quilting: Artistic (Free-Motion Quilt) Binding: Part 5

Landscape quilting in miniature

Landscape quilting mini with two fabrics turned to form a raw-edge applique binding

My mini landscape quilt binding will be a smaller, but more detailed and artistic version of the larger quilt binding that I did in my last video on YouTube: Free-Motion Quilt Binding & Fix Flaws | Part 7 Landscape Quilting Tutorial. landscapr-part-7bAgain, this tutorial is not intended to replace the video, but to shrink the project to a more manageable size, as well as cover a few issues beyond the scope of the video.

At the same time, at this miniature size, I am able to show you a more complex and artistic binding that can be achieved using more than one layer of fabric. Taken to the extreme, this technique allows you to integrate the edge of your design with the face of any raw-edge appliqué project. And so to switch things up on this mini, I’ll scissor cut both my perimeter and binding fabric, and then incorporate two layers for an irregular and artistic binding that “frames” my little quilt.

STEP ONE: Prepare for binding

Photo a) Wash and dry your piece by machine. Washing and drying relaxes and shrinks the materials, resulting in a quilt that has a visually rich texture.

Photo b) Press piece from behind with a lot of steam. Then trim and clean away the fray with curved embroidery scissors and a lint roller so you can see what you have to work with.

Photo c) Trim the perimeter with scissors to create an irregular shape. It is critical to make this appear deliberate. Otherwise it will just seem sloppy. A few good notches on the sides and angling near the corners is usually enough to accomplish this. Avoid sharp inside corners for now.

Photo d) Cut 1 or 2 layers of fabric and layer them as shown. Please start with one layer on your first project. Place the wrong side of your quilt against the right side of your binding(s). At this size, I like to cut my fabric larger than my piece by up to an inch or so (as shown) and forgo pinning. Please do whatever makes you feel comfortable. For larger work, I would scissor cut my piece and binding fabrics all irregularly to match each other and then pin them like in the video.

STEP TWO: Bind Mini Landscape Quilt

Photo e) Stitch around piece between 1/8-inch and 3/16-inch from the edge of your piece with a tight stitch length (2 mm or 12 stitches/inch or less). Stitch around a second time. I do mean TWICE. This creates a much more stable edge that won’t pull apart.

Photo f) Carefully trim close to the stitched edge leaving an 1/8-inch seam allowance beyond the stitching. I like to do this with the binding Read More …